We arrived in Amristar at the Madpacker Hostel at about 4 pm, only 3 hours later than scheduled. Fortunately, this hostel had hot water, and we found great delight in washing off the dusty trip and whatever else was clinging to us from those 20-year-old never-cleaned bus cushions. Amritsar Amritsar – Wikipedia offers a lot to do and see; however, we have come for 2 things, the Harmandir Saheb or Golden Temple and the daily Border ceremony between India and Pakistan.
The Golden Temple is located in the oldest section of Amritsar and is the most spiritual site for Sikhism. It is a magnificent site and worth the Google reading https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Temple . I didn’t know much about the temple upon our arrival and didn’t read anything as I wanted to experience it afresh and untainted by the information or others’ opinions. As if I was an explorer coming across something never seen before.
The Madpacker was only a 7-minute walk to the Temple along the narrow winding streets of old Amritsar. Lining the streets were single-room abodes that served as an enterprise such as storefront, smithing shop, a two-pot restaurant, and home with sleeping quarters towards the rear. As I made my way towards the Temple, the sounds and smells swirling thick in the air made me believe if I closed my eyes I would be transported back hundreds of years.
The temple complex is a massive square with connected high white buildings forming a fortress around a wide marble walkway that runs along all four sides of the massive pool that feels like a small lake. In the center of the pool is the Golden temple. A gleaming gold structure jutting out into the center of the lake, seeming to float on perfectly still water.
Before entering the complex, everyone must stop in the Shoe House located outside of the complex. Here I removed my shoes and socks, checked them, and followed the rush of barefoot pilgrims headed for one of the four entrances. As I walked down the 500-foot walkway towards the entrance, I passed people sleeping, camped out with suitcases and bedrolls. Some appeared to be humble poor people without much, and others seemed to be well-to-do and more than capable of the 8 USD a night we were spending. – I later learned that the temple welcomes everyone regardless of race, creed, or ethnicity. You can come and sleep as well as be fed.
The entrance of the Temple is guarded by men in long dark blue outer covering over white pants. They wear beautiful yellow turbans and carry long spears. Tall imposing men who do not look as if they should be trifled with at all. Before reaching them, there was a 5-foot-wide 3-inch-deep pool of flowing water spanning the 30 plus foot width of the walkway. This process cleansed the feet of each individual passing through the water. Then down the steps beneath the arches and into the open-air temple. Men must cover their heads, and women their legs. The imposing guard pointed to my head, smiled, and provided a scarf.
I was taking it all in with great interest yet maybe a bit disconnected emotionally; however, as I stepped into the flowing water to clean my feet, I froze. Without warning, tears began to flow. The feeling of welcome was overwhelming. The great respect each person showed as they entered this place of worship was so pure. My mind went directly to the communion foot washing within my own religious experience. I could see my dad down on his knee, his strong vein-defined hands washing my feet with such humility and love. I could see my son, Kelton at his first foot washing as I washed his small feet in the basin of warm water, and I could feel his little hands washing mine. Yet these tears were from a place deeper than this; they were the flowing from the connection I felt with those around me, my God, and myself.
by David Kelton Starks
In these pages, you’ll encounter the raw and unfiltered emotions of a journey marked by resilience and triumph.
In these pages, you’ll encounter the raw and unfiltered emotions of a journey marked by resilience and triumph.
