Returning from India in late October 2022, I was in full adventure mode, contemplating my next big challenge. Over dinner in Barcelona, my colleagues mentioned the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, and suddenly, my path was clear. This would be my next odyssey—a 500-mile solo cycling journey, rich with physical, mental, and spiritual dimensions.
The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of Saint James, is a historic European pilgrimage route with deep spiritual significance. It’s named after Saint James, one of Jesus’s apostles, whose remains are believed to rest in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The Camino de Santiago, alongside Rome and Jerusalem, is one of the three great Christian pilgrimages of medieval Europe. This famous route, the Camino Frances, begins in St. Jean Pied de Port on the French side of the Pyrenees, concluding 500 miles later in Santiago, located in northern Spain.
The plan was set for October 1, 2023. After extensive research, I decided to start my journey at the official beginning in St. Jean Pied de Port. Armed with over 40 years of cycling experience (and perhaps a bit of hubris), I estimated a 10-day expedition—550 miles divided into a manageable 50 miles per day. Still, I felt a hint of concern about the late start; the official pilgrimage season ends in September, and October marks the beginning of the rainy season, which can make the Camino treacherous.
Pause: Every day is a blessing. At 64, when an opportunity arises, I feel compelled to seize it. Weather be damned—I wasn’t going to miss this window to embark on the Camino de Santiago.
Sidebar: While I’ve participated in numerous long-distance, multi-day rides as a road cyclist, most were supported events, always returning to the starting point. In those instances, true self-sufficiency wasn’t required. Sure, knowing the basics—like changing a tire—is essential, but that’s usually all. However, my research indicated that this journey would be vastly different from anything I’d done before. I would be unsupported and alone, in a country where I had limited language skills, without the safety net of being able to call my kids or close friends for help. This would also mark my first significant solo travel experience. As the departure date approached, my apprehension grew. I hadn’t shared many details about the pilgrimage, choosing to keep my concerns hidden from those who knew, fearing it would only increase their worries.
With all the training and preparation complete, I boarded the plane on September 29th, ready for the flight to Barcelona.
by David Kelton Starks
In these pages, you’ll encounter the raw and unfiltered emotions of a journey marked by resilience and triumph.
In these pages, you’ll encounter the raw and unfiltered emotions of a journey marked by resilience and triumph.
