Leaving Amritsar, to make our way the four hours north to McLeod Ganj, was as difficult a thing as any I have done. The morning traffic clogged the small streets as tuk-tuks wedged themselves into a three-wheeled impenetrable wall, accented by a cacophony of horns and pulmonary-crushing exhaust. At points, it was difficult to think or breathe. Our driver needed my GPS to get out of the city – I asked the same question, literally, “what’s up with that” – We had hired him through a taxi service to take us the four hours to McLeod Ganj located in the mountainous north. There we will slow down for the next five days and spend time meditating, hiking, and reflecting.
Escaping the City of Amritsar
The sounds and smells of the city began slowly fading away as we entered the highway and pushed into the countryside. It was comforting to see lush green again. The fields were a patchwork of shades ranging from amber to deep green, and though we passed through several towns that offered their brief traffic madness, it was a far cry from any of the cities that marked the earlier part of this journey. I struggled to stay awake as I found myself falling onto the driver, much to his irritation and concern as he navigated the more rural roads full of steep climbs, narrow passages, washed-out roads under repair, and of course, the meandering cows, who for some reason enjoy sitting in the middle of the road.
I had been feeling under the weather the past couple of days and only slept a few hours each night. As we entered McLeod Ganj, I felt a great sense of peace. The mountain town is full of little shops, coffee houses, and endless yoga studios. Tibetan monks are everywhere along with travelers, like me, looking journey-frazzled but with a glint of serenity in their eye. This place is magical, with mountains rising into the clouds and narrow streets so steep they seem to lift you towards heaven. I had the feeling that whatever burden I still carry I could surely lay it down in this place, at least for the next five days.